Urlaub zu Dritt (plus Söt)

Back in civilization after 3 weeks of trekking around the Annapurnas.
You cannot imagine how incredible the landscape is. We have seen Annapurna 1, Annapurna South, Daulaghiri, Manaslu, Fishtail. In morning light, in full sun, with snow blowing off the peaks, surrounded by stars and lit by moonlight. But the best view, not because of the view itself, but of the reward it made for us, was the view from the Thorung-La (Thorung Pass). Standing, sitting, sipping tea at 5416m above sea level was unbelievable. And it hurt. The way up to the pass started at 5 in the morning. The headaches of the previous evening that developed during a acclimatization hike where gone – thanks to Diamox and some hours sleep. But then we forced ourselves up the mountain. It’s cold, it’s still dark, you are huffing and puffing and after an hour you are only at 4800m. This will never end… We walked in snow, supported our legs with our walking poles. But the worst is that everytime you breathe close to nothing enters your lungs. There is air, of course, but it’s so thin you have the feeling that not enough oxygen reaches your lungs. And you are huffing and puffing even more. But then after 4:30h we saw a crowd of people and knew it’s only some steps to the pass. What a feeling. After catching breath it feels so much better. Okay, the headaches began again, but we knew that we would sleep lower than the 2 previous nights and the headaches will go away. Sitting on the backpack at the pass with a hot tea in the hands enjoying the feeling that we really made, did not turn back, is just great. After 45 min and some pictures with our porter cum guide Yakpu Sherpa we set off for the long descend to Muktinath (3800m). This descend hurt even more. The further we went down the better the oxygen supply get’s. But it’s poison for the knees. We had lunch an hour before Muktinath, got the temple complex shown and happily fell onto our beds at 15:30. What a day.
The usual Daal Bhat for dinner and a night of deepest sleep followed.

More on the whole trek follows the next days…

PS: Thanks for all the birthday wishes! Esp. Uli! Wow! What a mail! And I had a birthday cake, 2 presents and a cinnamon roll 🙂