Runs after the Taj

3 November 2008

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Our train to Agra was the worst train ride I had in my life. So far – no idea what is still to come…
We were on the waiting list for 2AC from Varanasi to Agra. 2AC means that there are 2 lower and two upper berths in each compartment on one side of the train. On the other side there are only one upper and one lower berth which are in direction of the train (side berths). The compartments are not divided by doors but by curtains. To get a better impression, take a look here. We were on the waiting list and had the big luck to be the last ones getting a place on the train due to cancellations. But we did not get 2 berths. Nope. Tom was on a shared berth with another person (said to be entering the train in Lucknow – that’s 5 hours after Varanasi), which means he would have had to share the berth in day-time mode (two seats) wich a stranger. I myself was still waitlisted. But as we were booked on one ticket I was allowed to enter the train.If all passengers would have been there, I would have had to wait outside (next to the toilets). So, we spent the first 6 hours sharing the two seats that Tom should share wich the stranger from Lucknow on. Sleeping? Not really. After everybody boarded the train in Lucknow opening curtains, switching on lights, getting stuff carried into the train by porters or family members and having a big and loud good bye, the train attendent moved us to a compartment where we got one upper and one lower berth. 4 hours to go to Agra. That might have been a bit of sleep. If there wouldn’t have been a middle class Indian that balanced his prosperity belly onto the upper berth. Half an hour later he was in deepest dreams of cutting wood – people that snore should not be permitted on night trains. We tried to drown the noise with the fan. I got around 2 hours of sleep, the rest of the time we talked. When Mr.Belly left the compartment for a pee, his mobile rang. He came back, got into the lower berth and started to snore again. I switched on the fan again. Immediatly he woke up, switched off the fan. Just a split second later I switched on both light and fan, looked him into his face, switched off the light again and lay down. He did not touch the switch again. Half an hour later he left the train and will be baffled for some days, I think.

After arriving in Agra 1 1/2 hours late, we walked to our hotel, had breakfast on the roof top terrace and then entered our room. The next day we got up early to queue at the Taj Mahal. We queued around 45 min for the tickets and then again queued 45 min to get through security. Men and women have seperate queues there, so that we could not even talk. It’s unbelievable how inefficient people can be. I had to open my camera bag, get the camera out of it (nothing else fits in there), was asked not to use my pocket knife inside (“No Ma’am, I won’t.”) and was also asked if I had an iPod in my bag. No, they will not take over the world.

The Taj Mahal itself is stunning. Only if there were less people. I hate people. Well, if they come in quantities more than 20 or so. It’s reallt hard to get good pictures there as there are hundreds of people all over the place. I tried my best and will upload some pics later
After a nap and a movie (never expect to see a ful movie even on indian HBO – there will be a power cut, the central receiver will fail, HBO magically disappears for another channel) we visited the

Agra Fort. The fort is big and plump, as a fort should be I suppose. It’s nice to have it seen, but having seen the Taj Mahal before the fort was a bit disappointing. Then we had dinner. This dinner was disastrous. It was yummie (we both had the same Thali), but something must have been wrong with it. During the night Tom was plagued by the runs and vomiting. Great. I rebooked our train tickets to go a day later. I was not feeling too well either, but could go outside to get water and coke. In the evening when Tom got better little by little, it was my turn then. Thank God we had an attached bath.
Today Tom is quite fit again – I’m still not too well, but am happy that it got better during the night.
We try to pass the time until our train departs blogging and having tea and will be happy when we arrive in Jaipur this night. And this time we will have ear plugs handy. It’s only 4 hours, but you never know…

3 Responses to “Runs after the Taj”

  1. phil Says:

    wo liegtn diarrhoe? 😉

  2. GerhK Says:

    poor guys. hope you had immodium with you:)

  3. Priyanka Mehrotra Says:

    Hi Judith,
    here’s my reaction to this blog – BWA HAHAHAHA!!!
    very well written, I think you have a flair for the comic. Here’s something I always tell my toursits friends from outside india – travel with someone who knows the country (very useful in getting rid of touts/over-charging cabbies/hooligans etc. and also in bargaining). However, if you are the go-it-alone types, be ready for some rough rides. If you are in Jaipur, I have some Brazilian friends visiting there this weekend (14th nov). Also, do let us know if it would be possible to meet up when you guys are in mumbai. Take cary of your tummy!
    – Priyanka

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